ETICA. Ethical. SIMPLE. Delicious.
When we heard that there was a new ethical pizzeria, we were excited to try it. Having read the menu online, I had a good idea of the owner's philosophy, but didn't know whether the food would be similarly unique.
We went along on a weeknight, about 8pm not long after Etica opened and it was about half full. On Gilles Street, Etica is owned by an awesome couple who renovated the space (once an office) - which now has a modern, but organic feel. The owners are trained lawyers, who are passionate about the ethical treatment of animals and food. Their hope is that their restaurant will provide people with an opportunity to think about where their food has come from. A list of all the producers is provided and you get an understanding of the life of the animal you are eating.
Frederico, the chef, is still on the Law Society Animal Law Committee. It is great to see someone using their skills to make a difference educating consumers in a practical way and taking the time to shape policy. Melissa is still practising law but provides wonderful service and good wine recommendations after hours. Clearly she is a busy lady. It is difficult not to hope this restaurant and idea will succeed. Their approach is informative, but not preachy.
The food itself was simple and delicious.
We ordered a margherita with buffallo mozarella which was served unsliced. Simple, with an almost soft base - it was like no pizza I had ever tried (or at least not until I went to the new Pizzeria e Mozarella on Pirie Street, which is surprisingly similar to Etica's menu and style). The pizza was topped with tomato passata with just enough mozarella melted on top to be delicious but not 'cheesy'. The basil was a little sparse, but consistent with the obvious approach to pizza at Etica - simple, not overdone. I have since taken a leaf out of Etica's book when making pizza's at home. A less is more approach has been a success (and reduced calories).
The Fusilli Ragu was wonderfully rich and tasty made with organic pork, pancetta and beef. (We ordered this again on a second visit, after I had been thinking about it all afternoon). The pasta was perfectly cooked. No huge bowls at Etica - the serves are more modest than the mains you are served at many italian restaurants, but satisfying. We shared our pizza and pasta and were both perfectly content, rather than rolling out the door. A generous portion of shaved Romano cheese was provided with our pasta. A seasonable fig salad rounded off an excellent meal. The wine list features interesting varieties, and, like the rest of the menu, is well-priced. We each had a glass of the Catine Lenotti Rossa Passo on Melissa' recommendation (a snip at $7 a glass), which was a good match to our meal.
Possibly the only difficulty at Etica is fitting all your food onto your small table - but I love a bit of clutter, it adds to the atmosphere. We have since been back for a second visit - and the restaurant was packed. The word is clearly out. It is not difficult to see why.
Prices:
Pizza $20-28
Pasta $15-22
Wine by the glass $6-12
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