Saturday, November 10, 2012

Review - Pearl's Diner - Felixstow


Pearl's Diner is the permanent address of the great people who bring Burger Theory to the city streets.  In an quiet-ish suburban street in Felixstow, Pearl's doesn't have much street presence - but its non-descript building is perfect for a business that is premised on its customers coming to finding it.

Before visiting Pearl's, I have had Burger Theory twice.  Not because it isn't great, but because for a female lawyer confined to a desk choosing a burger and chips for lunch is quite a step.  Fancy Burger this isn't.  There is no convincing yourself the fare at Burger Theory and Pearl's is healthy.  By my, is it tasty.

We ordered from the Art Burger series - a burger which is truly designed.  A concept burger accompanied by a concept design and graphic.  Ours had a mexican flavour - which freshened up the burger considerably.  I for one, hope the burger specials stay, because there are only two regulars on the menu.  A rotating third choice seems like a good idea for those that stalk the Burger Theory truck more frequently than I do.

The fit-out smacks of a well thought through home job. And I mean that as a good thing.  Austin and I converted old shops not dissimilar to Pearl's digs, which we live in.  That was largely a home job too, so we know the tell-tale signs and we appreciate them.  Great graphics on the wall inside and out befitting of an establishment such as Pearl's.  All in all, an unpretentious and top job.

We arrived about 7 and manage to snag a table without waiting.  Order at the counter, which I frankly prefer in a busy place like this.  Doesn't take long to choose, because the menu is straightforward.

We ordered two burgers which each come with a side of chips.  The #1 burger with something super they called Truck Sauce and the Art Burger special.  The pattie is nice and pink in the middle (for the kiddies, a special burger is cooked well done).  The bun is glossy, like someone was out the back giving them a buff and polish.  There is no licence at Pearl's yet, so I ordered a ginger beer and was happy with my choice until I glanced over to the next table and saw what looked like the most chocolatey, ice-creamy milkshake I had ever seen.  Don't make my mistake.  Get a milkshake with your burger and chips.

Two pork buns and a slide of coleslaw completed the order.  The coleslaw needed a little more punch in the flavour, but the pork buns were tasty.   The buns themselves are actually smaller versions of the burger buns.  Super tasty, sweet and smoky 14 hour cooked Berkshire pork.  But a small side of burger with my burger was probably a bit much for me.  I would probably go with the buttermilk chicken wings as a side when I next return.  Or if you are sharing, one pork bun (a big bite each) and a couple of chicken wings, is probably also a smart option, so you don't have to miss out on that pork.

Determined not to miss out as I did with the milkshake, after scoffing our burgers, we shared a serve of house-made waffles, a special aptly named Chocolate Obsession.  Chocolate ice-cream, sauce, almonds and strawberries.  I don't think I have ever had home-made waffles and they were much more textural than I anticipated, more crunch than fluff.  Possibly a bit heavy to round off the meal if you go for any extra sides with your burger.

So here is what I intend to do next time:  get the chocolate milkshake and skip the waffles; have chicken wings instead of a pork buns - I think this will make the meal a more well-rounded experience. But seriously, if it takes your fancy, order it.  At Pearl's it seems pretty difficult to go wrong.

Pearl's Diner
38A Briar Rd, Felixstow (at the top of Payneham Road)
Burger with chips: $13-15 regular menu; $17 special
Sides: $4-7
Waffles: $5-9; $12 special
No booze yet.



Remember:  the awesome burgers reviewed here are also available on the Burger Theory Truck.  Facebook them for locations and hop to it.

Friday, November 9, 2012

Review - Panacea - Halifax Street


We first visited Panacea about a year ago on a hot summer's evening.  The decor, modern and slightly eclectic is perfect for unwinding on a warm evening.  The evening started off a little shaky with perhaps the worst mojito I have ever been served, but after that things began looking up.  So much so, while clearly remembering the good impression Panacea left on us, the details are a little hazy.

Last week we returned to Panacea and I suddenly I recalled what had been so wonderful.  The signature tasting plate.  But I will start from the top.

The dining options at Panacea are flexible, perfect for a couple or a larger group.  Started, sharing plates, large plates, tasting plates and pizza.  A solid wine list, with interesting varietals across all price points, we selected a Sangiovese after being offered a complimentary taste of Montpulciano which was lightly heavy for what we were after, but good nonetheless.

We selected the special beer battered eggplant with fig (or was it quince?) syrup and Labneh.  Both were excellent - although in both cases the dish could have been more delicate, perhaps with a lighter batter or crisp flat bread to accompany the Labheh, rather than white and crunchy loaf.

The Signature tasting plate will set you back $98 and is an epic meal for two.  Be bold and give it a go, and perhaps limit your small plates to some Labneh and Pepitas.  It is worth saving the room. Comprising of sticky sweet pork belly, morroccan style quail, delicious homestyle meatballs, garfish rolled with ham, scallops with a divine tarragon butter and brandy and finally mushrooms with thyme, garlic and sherry vinegar - it is the best way to sample what Panacea has to offer.  My only criticism was that the quail was perhaps a little dry, but was offset by the buttery sweetness of the accompanying cous cous.

We were so impressed by the garfish, we tried to make something similar ourselves the following week, with relatively limited success.

The meal was finished off with a creme brulee with angel hair toffee.  oh my.

Service is efficient, friendly and unobtrusive.  No change from $200 inclusive of tip, which if you consider what we ate, is good value.  It is apparent that locals in the area are repeat customers.  Many of our fellow diners knew each other and the owner - and that can only be a good sign.


Small tastes $4-12
Sharing Plates $14-18
Large Plate $27-34
Tasting Plates (for two at least) $95-105
Pizza $21-26
Desert $8-15
Wine $34-110 with a good mix of price points in between.

Sunday, May 6, 2012

Review - Fancy Burger


Opening in Blackwood last year, Fancy Burger offers burgers, but a little bit fancy.  But you also need to go for the chips:  flat, crisp, salty with rosemary.  They are as a chip should be.  Not to mention the dipping sauces.  For $1.20 you can dip your chips in handmade smoked chilli mayo, bbq relish, herby mayo or tomato relish.  I use the chips as a scoop for the bbq relish, it is that good.

So the burgers...  Wholemeal bun, fresh ingredients.  My favourite is the Sunrise Surprise less pineapple and swapping herby mayo for smoked chilli mayo.  A lean but juicy pattie, with avocado and sun-blushed tomato, crisp lettuce, spanish onion.  Austin goes for The Biggie, which has what every good Aussie burger with the lot should:  egg and beetroot.  I admit we go to Fancy Burger every fortnight.  We don't eat fast-food unless it is logistically necessary, but if you keep your chip (and relish) intake at a level, it is a relatively healthy meal.

Fancy a chicken burger with camembert cheese and cranberry. Want to add a bit of goat's cheese?  George the owner can make it happen.

Going in winter?  dress warm.

Burgers range between $10-12, but given the quality of the produce you are getting value.

Fancy Burger is licensed.  Serving beers and Hills Apple Cider, you can have one with your burger or while you wait.

Go ahead, get Fancy...

Review - Olive (next door to Lucky Lupitas)

(actual image to come)

A new greek restaurant called Olive has popped up next door to Lucky Lupitas in Bedford Park.  Unfairly, our first thought was that Lucky Lupitas should have expanded to the space next door, so we wouldn't have to wait so long.. but we have now tried Olive and are happy to welcome it to the neighbourhood.

With a large olive tree decal on the front window, the fit out is a mixture of slick and DIY.    All this points to a simple and unassuming family run restaurant (pictures on walls are also a giveaway, as is the personality in the service).  We visited for a quick dinner on a Friday night.  No liquor licence yet, so that assisted us with a speedy turnaround.  The owners also seemed to have the same idea.  The service was lightening speed, perhaps a little too quick.  Our mains were served before we were done with our dips platter.

The pita and dips were a delight.  The bread has some kind of moorish seasoning.  I had to stop, because I didn't want to be full for the rest.

We ordered Moussaka to share which was delicious, perfectly seasoned meat, zucchini and potato topped with a delicious cheesy crisp top.  A greek sausage dish completed our main selection.  It was clearly authentic, twisted and sliced partially through.   I'll be honest it was perhaps a little too authentic for me and seemed to contain some 'left over bits'.  This is certainly not a criticism and will likely be welcomed by those a little more cultured than myself.  Austin enjoyed it.  The greek salad was as it should be.

We'll be back to sample some more dishes.

Dinner for two with no alcohol:  under $60

Review - Lucky Lupitas


When you walk into Lucky Lupitas, you might notice a note on the wall which tells you that people don't each burritos in restaurants in Mexico.  I had always suspected that they don't have pinatas hanging from the ceiling in Mexico either.  I think that must also be right because at Lucky Lupitas there is not a pinata (or any other kitsch 'mexican' decoration) to be seen.

We eagerly awaited the opening of Lucky Lupitas.  The small shop previously contained another favourite of ours 'Ping Pong' which served delicious, simple and very cheap asian food in a very slick space (bentwood chairs, etc).  We were disappointed when Ping Pong suddenly disappeared, but soon had something else to look forward to.

Austin loves ribs.  I love mexican.  We both love interesting fit-outs.  Cue our first (and certainly not only) visit to Lucky Lupitas.

It look two trips to Lucky Lupitas to get a table on our first visit.  Luckily we live 5 minutes down the road.  We had a similar experience on our second visit.  Apparently, it is best to get there early - otherwise be prepared to wait.

Ask for a recommendation as to an appropriate amount of dishes for your group.  Lucky Lupitas offers starters, small plates (street food), hamburgueas, larger plates, ribs with your choice of sauce and a mix of sides.  On our first visit we did not order enough, but the waitress promptly delivered an extra plate once we discovered our mistake and ordered more.

The grilled corn with a thin covering of chipolte mayonnaise, cheese and lime is a must.  A cheesy, tangy taste sensation, which doesn't overpower the fresh flavour of the corn.   Tostones - twice cooked plaintain chips - are excellent, almost fritter-like, with a dry sweetness.

We followed our starters with couple of tacos - which do not resemble the tacos you get in boxes in the supermarket.  Rolled, soft and served not quite hot - a drizzling of lime juice sets off your choice of filling.  The braised beef is good.

Chicken Nachos come in a generously large serve, with chunks of tender chicken but otherwise light on the cheese so the dish does not become a sloppy mess and feels a little less naughty.  The ribs are not the fatty pork ribs I had imagined.  I expected my fingers to get sticky, but it was a far more civilised affair.  Wood-smoked beef short ribs.  Not fatty, but perfectly cooked, tender and slightly stringy.  Your choice of sauce, but to us, chipolte bbq seemed appropriate.  Austin and I are not big meat eaters - one to share is plenty for two, with a mix of other dishes.

The prickly pear margarita is almost too drinkable for its $40 price tag.  Served in tall glasses with a salt rim.

All in all, Lucky Lupitas is a gem.  And since it has opened up in our area, where there isn't much happening on the dining scene, we feel pretty lucky too.

Prices:  (our average visit with a pitcher of prickly pear usually lands between $75-$90 for two, but we don't hold back on a variety of dishes)
Starters $4.50 - 10.90
Small plates $9.50 - $15.90
Hamburgers $11.90
Larger plates $15.90 - $21.90
Ribs $23.90.













Lonza Cotta


Austin and I are regulars at the Showground Farmer's Market and we visit San Jose smallgoods each week for various delicious artisan cured meats.  Usually, it is proscuitto to top our pizza, but today we purchased a piece of Lonza Cotta - described as being 'Hellenic spiced'.  The stallholder informs me that it is made for George on Masterchef for his restaurant.  Austin asked me 'whose that?'.  We aren't avid Masterchef viewers, but the sample provided by San Jose had already sold me.   To me - not a cured meat expert - Lonza Cotta is like delicately spiced ham.  Just delicious.  $7 for a small piece, we had so far had three sandwiches from our piece and looks like there will be enough for a carbonara and a few sneaky cuts snuck from the fridge here and there.

Saturday, May 5, 2012

Review - ETICA Ethical Pizzeria e Mozzarella Bar



ETICA.  Ethical.  SIMPLE.  Delicious.

When we heard that there was a new ethical pizzeria, we were excited to try it.  Having read the menu online, I had a good idea of the owner's philosophy, but didn't know whether the food would be similarly unique.  

We went along on a weeknight, about 8pm not long after Etica opened and it was about half full.  On Gilles Street, Etica is owned by an awesome couple who renovated the space (once an office) - which now has a modern, but organic feel.  The owners are trained lawyers, who are passionate about the ethical treatment of animals and food.  Their hope is that their restaurant will provide people with an opportunity to think about where their food has come from.  A list of all the producers is provided and you get an understanding of the life of the animal you are eating.  

Frederico, the chef, is still on the Law Society Animal Law Committee.  It is great to see someone using their skills to make a difference educating consumers in a practical way and taking the time to shape policy.   Melissa is still practising law but provides wonderful service and good wine recommendations after hours.  Clearly she is a busy lady.   It is difficult not to hope this restaurant and idea will succeed.  Their approach is informative, but not preachy.  

The food itself was simple and delicious.  

We ordered a margherita with buffallo mozarella which was served unsliced.  Simple, with an almost soft base - it was like no pizza I had ever tried (or at least not until I went to the new Pizzeria e Mozarella on Pirie Street, which is surprisingly similar to Etica's menu and style).   The pizza was topped with tomato passata with just enough mozarella melted on top to be delicious but not 'cheesy'.  The basil was a little sparse, but consistent with the obvious approach to pizza at Etica - simple, not overdone.  I have since taken a leaf out of Etica's book when making pizza's at home.  A less is more approach has been a success (and reduced calories).  

The Fusilli Ragu was wonderfully rich and tasty made with organic pork, pancetta and beef. (We ordered this again on a second visit, after I had been thinking about it all afternoon).  The pasta was perfectly cooked.  No huge bowls at Etica - the serves are more modest than the mains you are served at many italian restaurants, but satisfying.  We shared our pizza and pasta and were both perfectly content, rather than rolling out the door.  A generous portion of shaved Romano cheese was provided with our pasta.  A seasonable fig salad rounded off an excellent meal.  The wine list features interesting varieties, and, like the rest of the menu, is well-priced.  We each had a glass of the Catine Lenotti Rossa Passo on Melissa' recommendation (a snip at $7 a glass), which was a good match to our meal. 

Possibly the only difficulty at Etica is fitting all your food onto your small table - but I love a bit of clutter, it adds to the atmosphere.  We have since been back for a second visit - and the restaurant was packed.  The word is clearly out.  It is not difficult to see why.

Prices:
Pizza $20-28
Pasta $15-22
Wine by the glass $6-12